Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
